Authors: nytimes Diners Journal
To Shop: A Butcher Shop Expands With Sausages and Game
Dickson’s Farmstand Meats is branching out, adding a third location to its main store in the Chelsea Market and the satellite at All Good Things in TriBeCa. This time it is taking over the meat counter at Foragers City Grocer in Chelsea. Jake Dickson (at right) will sell his locally sourced meats here, specializing in game, and he’ll also focus on sausages — his own and, for home cooks, the necessary equipment and ingredients: 300 West 22nd Street, (212) 243-8888, foragerscitygrocer.com.
To View: Documentary Studies Hunger in America
Add “A Place at the Table” to the growing list of documentaries driven by food issues. In this one, directed by Kristi Jacobson and Lori Silverbush, experts like Tom Colicchio (below), address the often invisible crisis of hunger in America; the need for affordable healthy food; and how that shortage affects children. “Sometimes we run out of food and we have to figure out something to do,” one child said, in a striking moment caught on camera: In theaters, and at iTunes and ON Demand, on Friday, takepart.com/table.
To Use: A Simple Steam Tray to Bathe Your Dinner
This new, effective microwave container from Spain is much lower-tech than the gizmos associated with Spanish chefs. Simply put some food to be steam-cooked into the oblong silicone case, fold the attached flaps to cover it and put it in your microwave or a moderate oven. The smaller size can hold food for two — like a pound of boneless fish with vegetables — and a larger size accommodates three to four servings. It comes with a rack so you can put stock or wine in the bottom: Lékué Steam Case, $30 for the small size, $40 for the large at Sur La Table, surlatable.com.
To Taste: Saltier Prosciutto Fit for Dante’s Bread
A bite of Tuscan prosciutto is all you need to understand salt-free Tuscan bread, the stuff that Dante so deeply missed when he was in exile. Prosciutto Toscano is saltier and a bit spicier than prosciutto from Parma or San Daniele, so saltless bread is an excellent foil. And now you can see for yourself. After years of due diligence to comply with Department of Agriculture rules, the hams are being imported into the United States for the first time. They are different from other hams because of the somewhat smaller size of the pigs, which also have less fat, and the seasoning used in curing, which involves pepper and juniper as well as salt. “The texture is also drier than the others,” said Cesare Casella, the Tuscan chef who is selling the ham in his shops. “It’s more like Spanish serrano ham”: $28 a pound at Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto on the Upper West Side and Upper East Side. Also at Eataly and Fairway.
To Indulge: A Cheesecake to Serve 6, but Not if You’re Lucky
To define “delicacy,” just look to the cheesecake made by Belle Chevre, a goat cheese company in Elkmont, Ala. Its confection, made from sweetened goat cheese with a whiff of lemon in a graham cracker crust, can end a meal with ethereal lushness. At a little more than a pound and a half, the cake, sold frozen, serves six to eight, and is ideal with fresh fruit, either tropical ones now or berries before you know it: $29.99 at Murray’s Cheese on Bleecker Street, (212) 243-3289, and $34.99 from murrayscheese.com.
To Munch: This Sweet Lady Has a Touch of Tartness
Welcome Lady Alice. She has breeding and class, but also enough of what it takes to win the popular vote. What this apple offers beneath its golden skin, striped with pinkish red, is a crisp texture, a sweet taste with a touch of tartness and a resistance to browning. It also holds its shape when cooked. The Lady Alice, which growers in Washington State have started cultivating commercially, was a chance seedling discovered in 1979 in a red Delicious orchard. It’s thought to be an heirloom. The growers found that the apple’s flavor improves after a few months of storage, which is why it’s in season now: $2.50 to $3 a pound at King Kullen, Citarella and Stop & Shop, rainierfruit.com.