David Tanis, who writes the weekly City Kitchen column, is the author of two cookbooks, “A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes” and “Heart of the Artichoke and Other Kitchen Journeys.”
If you are in high gear dealing with the upcoming Thanksgiving dinner, you may want to delay reading this week’s City Kitchen column. For many people, the whole point of the holiday is the leftovers, so here’s my suggestion for a post-Thanksgiving meal.
It’s a relatively simplified turkey and rice biryani (many biryanis are quite complex) but still a bit of a project; then again, some people enjoy a little weekend fiddling after the holiday. (By the way, if you want to make your biryani vegetarian, substitute roasted butternut squash and other vegetables for the turkey and good vegetable broth for the turkey broth.)
I employ the Indian spice mixture garam masala to flavor the rice. Some insist that garam masala should be used only as a last-minute seasoning addition. I say there are exceptions to every rule. You can buy garam masala from most spice vendors, but it’s easy to make your own. Simply combine 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds, 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, 1 teaspoon cumin seed, 1 teaspoon cloves and a 1-inch cinnamon stick in an electric spice mill and grind to a powder, then add 1 teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg.