John DeLucie has a penchant for renovating venerable restaurant locations, including the Lion in Greenwich Village, and the town house on East 81st Street that has become Crown. Now, having taken over what was Bill’s Gay Nineties — the 88-year-old speakeasy that closed this year — he has taken an elegant dark paintbrush to the paneled walls in the ground-floor bar, the second-floor dining room and the third-floor private room.
The result, called simply Bill’s, is set to open Nov. 19. Mr. DeLucie has hung art everywhere, as is his signature. The executive chef, Jason Hall, a Gotham Bar and Grill alumnus who runs the kitchen at Crown, has a chophouse menu and then some, with a veal shank for two and spaghetti fra diavolo.
Bill’s, 57 East 54th Street, (212) 518-2727.